March 2020 | Mismatched Buttons (A Monthly Journal)

Arohanui

It’s fair to say that March was a whirlwind of events. A true global trauma that had been brewing for some months rose to a fever-pitch over March. It feels like a million years ago that, at the beginning of the month, Justin and I loaded up our van for a holiday at the top of Te-WaiPounamu, the South Island. We arrived home in the middle of the month, and then within ten days, Prime Minister Jacinda Ardern was announcing the Alert Level Four lockdown, for a period of four weeks.

Living in Aotearoa New Zealand, we were lucky enough to have a sensible government who saw the risk and acted. Of course, many lives in New Zealand have been irrevocably changed because of the economic, social, mental and emotional repercussions of the lockdown, and some have been chaged by the virus itself, through illness and loss. It feels inadequate to say, but my heart goes out to all those people who have found their lives turned upside-down during this time.

But I’m so grateful that New Zealand has not experienced the terror of widespread illness and death. To those readers who live in other countries who are weathering a much worse storm, I have very few words, except arohanui.

It feels trivial to do, but I’m going to turn now to the things I made during March.

From Autumnal Van-Life and Into Lockdown

In a weird way, my makes track the progression of March, from the gadding-about camping and into a nation-wide lockdown or rāhui. As we were about to leave I threw together a cutlery wrap, to help better organise our storage situation in our van. When I got back, I made a comfy pair of pants for my usual home-office life. As lockdown was announced, and in that manic rush of productivity I think a lot of people felt, I started a small community event on instagram under #AlertLevelFourMakeFour. And on the early days of Alert Level Four—and under the delusion that I’d swan my way elegantly through lockdown like Dr. Jean Milburn and not turn into the feral beast I actually felt I ended up being—I made the most impractical and glamorous Zadie Jumpsuit.

Van-Life Cutlery Wrap

I have a length of this beautiful waxed-canvas from Miss Maude Sewing in my stash, and I knew it would be perfect for the purpose or containing and organising our cutlery in our van-turned-camper.

This was a super-quick made-on-the-fly project, but I’ll try break down the steps. I think, though, it’s suffice to say that you don’t need to be exact with a project like this! It was actually a great deal of fun to not over-think it, to just do it and see how it worked. Now that we’ve used it, I can say that it worked almost perfectly.

Using the dimensions of a tea-towel, which we had been using to wrap our cutlery in, I cut a large rectangle, turned up the bottom to make a large pocket, stitched the side seams and turned the pocket out so the seams were on the inside. I then created various compartments, using the scientific method of placing the utensils in, figuring out roughly how much space they took up, and putting a stitch-line in to divide up the space. I finally attached a piece of webbing to tie the wrap closed.

I said the cutlery wrap works almost perfectly above, because my plan is to attach some dome closures to the flap, as it has an annoying habit of letting the teaspoons escape as you’re unrolling it, but other than that, it was pretty damned great.

Dreams of the perfect writing outfit…

I’ve been kind of obsessed with the idea of a writing outfit similar to the one that Jo March wears in the final scene of Greta Gerwig’s Little Women. You know the one: it’s a sumptuous, long, white cotton nightshirt, not too fussy, worn over a pair of loose-fitting pants, and excellent socks. And this is the beginning of my attempt to try realise that excellently comfy-looking outfit.

Fabric Made from trusty Ochre mid-weight linen from The Fabric Store. May they always have it in stock…

Pattern Free Range Slacks by Sew House Seven.

Version and Size I made a straight size 10, which was correct to my measurements at that time. I also chose the tapered leg version, although there is a wide leg version, too. For future versions of this make, I’m going to add a little extra width to the calf: because I have very muscular calves, the bottom hem catches on them when I cross my legs in a way that I find slightly annoying. But! This is the joy of sewing: I can totally sort out this minor problem!

Key Modifications None! Not even an altered crotch curve! Amazing! I may have found my unicorn? Because I was rushing a bit, I omitted the steps included in the pattern to flat-fell the side seams, to give a beautiful finish when you roll the cuff up, just opting to hem the bottom. In future, though, I intend to do things properly and include this lovely detail.

Final Word I haven’t worn these pants as much as I thought I would, I think perhaps lockdown drove me into almost-full-time leggings, but I’ve pulled them out for Me Made May, and I’m now wondering why on earth I wasn’t wearing them the whole time. From the side panel to the topstitching, to the directions for flat-felling the inner-seams, the Free Range Slacks have a lot of details that make these slacks far more elevated than a simple pair of elasticated pants.

And as for the linen, I really love The Fabric Store’s range, however I’d be lying if I didn’t say I worry a little about how the linen will wear at the inner thigh. All my linen tops have worn beautifully over time, but the one time I made pants from the heavy-weight linen (a couple of years ago when I was a little bigger) I found that the inner-thigh wore out far quicker than I would like. However, I’m just going to see how these go, and mend them as necessary.

To complete my vision of Jo’s writing outfit, I’m thinking the aptly-named Seamwork Pattern, Jo, and some heavy-weight white cotton will fit the bill perfectly.

#AlertLevelFourMakeFour

Catchy, huh? It would have been catchier if I’d stuck with my initial idea of #AlertFourMakeFour, but being a perennial pedant, it seemed wrong to not use the proper title of Alert Level Four. Anyway, enough ruminating on the edits you can no longer make…

In that immediate frenzy that preceded New Zealand’s nation-wide stay-home order, I thought that a way for me to keep focused on how to make this time ‘enjoyable’, and not a period of combined anxiety and tedium, was to have a plan for something to make during each week of our four-week lockdown.

After I posted my plans on instagram, it was lovely to find that a bunch of other sewists were keen to get on board as well, and it was a joy to watch people as they made their own selection of projects under this hashtag. Thanks for joining in the fun, you excellent folks!

I settled on a Scout Tee and an Archer Button-up by Grainline Studio, a Fremont Tote using my own weaving and a maker’s kit from Klum House, and a second Audrey Denim Jacket by Seamwork. All these projects were to use fabrics I already had in my stash (as I wasn’t sure if the online orders I’d placed would arrive before postal services stopped) and I felt like it was a good combination of simple and complex projects that I could get fizzy about. Of these, I did manage to finish one part of my #AlertLevelFourMakeFour…

A Pair of Scouts

Within days, I was no longer happy with the plan for just one Scout—I wanted two!

Fabric White and navy cotton ikats, and olive and cream cotton ikats from Stonemountain and Daughter Fabric.

Pattern The Scout Tee by Grainline Studio.

Size I make a size 10, which is where my measurements put me. I think, though, in future, I might experiment with a broad back adjustment.

Key Modifications I crop my Scouts by 3”.

Final Word My love affair with this pattern continues. I just love its simplicity, meaning it’s a perfect canvas to showcase beautiful fabrics. I’ve worn both of these tees weekly since I made them and I imagine making many more Scouts. There is a sleeve extension pack, and I think I’m going to buy it, so I can subtly change up the look, while still sticking with this classic pattern.

And how did my other #AlertLevelFourMakeFour makes go? Well, you’ll have to wait for April’s installment to find out…

Full-Buttercream Zadie

In those final days of March, though, before embarking on my #AlertLevelFourMakeFour, I had a delicious sew-frosting projects to finish off. Since trying on the Zadie my friend, Ruby (of @allknightsewing fame) was making, I knew I wanted one for myself, and I wanted it to be as buttercream as possible! Dr. Jean Milburn, from Sex Education was to be my lockdown, WFH style-icon, and this little ray of sunshine was the first piece of my fantasy wardrobe.

Fabric Tencel twill from Blackbird Fabrics

Pattern Darling of the sewing world, the Zadie Jumpsuit by Paper Theory Patterns

Version and Size I made the short-sleeve version, but I already have some fabric ready for a not-too-distant-future long-sleeve version. My measurements at the time put me between 12 and 14 (37b, 30w, 40h) but I made a size 10 based on trying on Ruby’s. I’m really happy with this fit: there’s enough ease without feeling like I’m swamped.

Key Modifications The pattern is drafted for a 5’7” person, and I am a shade under 5’4”, so I took three inches of length out of the leg. However, I should have taken some length (at least an inch, possibly two) out of the bodice so that the wrap hits my waist better. Oh well! I love it anyway.

Final Word This was my first time working with a Paper Theory pattern and I was very impressed with it. The detailing for the wrap gives a lovely, clean finish and, even though I was a little unsure about the lack of closures, I don’t have any modesty worries with the way the wrap works. It’s slightly lower-cut at the bust than my usual jam, but surely this is what frosting is about?! I was so excited about this make, I’ve already ordered fabric for a winter-approp. version.

And the drape of the tencel twill for this pattern is luscious. The swishyness and drape of this combination of fabric and pattern satisfy all those wistful, “What would it be like to have Jean’s wardrobe?” thoughts. Admittedly, because of the weight of the fabric, it’s going to be more of a summer wardrobe piece, but I’m already envisioning many warm, sunny days swanning about Wellington in my Zadie.

The truth is, though, once I settled into the norm of stay-home and my almost-full-time leggings, Zadie stayed in my closet, unworn, but daily admired. So, while my dreams of going full-Milburn didn’t fully eventuate during the rāhui, I’m still excited to have just such a slice of glamour in my wardrobe.

And with Me Made May upon us, I’m going to be delving into all corners of my wardrobe to see me through, so I’m sure Zadie is going to make an appearance or two!